Italy has the most UNESCO World Heritage sites of any country, 53 as of 2017. When visiting Naples, as well as Naples itself, we visited a few other UNESCO sites including the Amalfi Coast. The Amalfi Coast is to the south of Naples and only parts of it are easily accessible. Our aim during this visit was to walk the Il Sentiero degli Dei – The Path of the Gods.
How to get to Bomerano from Naples
The Path of the Gods runs between the villages of Bomerano and Nocelle. Bomerano is a fraction of Agerola and can be reached from Naples by Sita bus for around 6euro, the journey will take about an hour and a half through very scenic (but high) terrain. It is definitely worth the journey!
Il Sentiero degli Dei, The Path of the Gods
When we arrived in Bomerano we headed to a small cafe/deli called Top Vip O’Cetarell, which describes itself as a Gastropub, at 9.30am it was definitely more cafe. They have a great deli counter right at the front of the place which is stocked with charcuterie and mozzarella. Agerola is famous for a local fresh mozzarella which we really wanted to try. We bought some ham, olives, bread, water, a couple of mini cakes and of course some mozzarella to take with us for a picnic on our walk (more of a hike really, don’t be fooled when you read it’s a footpath running ‘gently downhill’)
Wear the right footwear for this walk – proper walking shoes/trainers, it will make things a lot easier!
The path is well signed from the centre of Bomerano, head out early though as it’s a very popular route. We started around 10am and it was pretty quiet for the first hour or so, it started getting busier by 12 and the closer we got to Positano and Praiano which are bigger towns with access to the path.
The views are stunning throughout the walk which is challenging in parts, more so towards the end where there are a few climbs. To be fair I was not wearing the right footwear (gym trainers, you would find it much easier in proper walking trainers or boots, we seen a lot of people using sticks).
We stopped for lunch towards the end of the walk, around half an hour left to go. There were some rocks stacked together and beyond those a set of steps which lead to a clearing set back from the main path with a stream running through it. Clearly it’s a known area by locals, at least as someone has had a campfire up here and logs perfect for sitting on were arranged around it. It was nice to sit back away from the growing crowds at that point and eat our lunch from Bomerano. We had too much to eat in one sitting but the mozzarella was awesome, the best we’ve had anywhere the leftovers were good for snacking on for a couple of days afterwards kept in our hotel room fridge.
The Path of the Gods ends in the tiny village of Nocelle set on the hillside above Positano. It is way up the hillside as well, we continued our walk from here down the steps towards Positano. These steps are a killer, we made it to the bottom of the 1700 steps eventually with shaking legs even after a few breaks. Not to be underestimated especially if you’ve already walked the Path of the Gods!
How to get around the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento
When you arrive in Positano you could either spend time here or catch the Sita bus to Sorrento for another 6euro. As another alternative we chose to take the City Sightseeing Bus which runs between Amalfi and Sorrento, stopping only once between the two cities at Positano, it costs 10euro per journey, whether you travel from Amalfi straight through to Sorrento or just from Positano to Sorrento or Amalfi. You are given headphones as you get on the bus which you will mostly hear music through as there isn’t much commentary on the journey, but you don’t need someone describing the beautiful views across the sea to you anyway. If you’re going to Sorrento you will want to sit on the left side of the bus.
What to see and what to do in Sorrento
Sorrento is another picture perfect town, although not technically on the Amalfi Coast the Sorrentine Peninsula is right next to it. If you arrive on the City Sightseeing Bus you will be dropped off outside of the train station. The town is very walkable and makes a great day trip from Naples in its own right.
Check how many cruise ships are due to be in port when you’re visiting, this has a very big impact on how busy the town will be
Whether you’re spending the day in Sorrento or just a few hours make sure you spend some time wandering around the side streets where you will find lots of independent shops and restaurants.
The area surrounding Naples is famous for its citrus and of course it’s limoncello. If you have never tried limoncello before I recommend visiting Nino & Friends where you can have a free sample before you buy at their Limonoro shop – the lemon cream was our favourite. It’s not all just about limoncello though, if you’re at Nino & Friends Limonoro head a few doors down to their bakery to try their biscuits – they’re amazing. Don’t forget your wallet though you’ll want to buy something from each shop to take home if you do take the samples.
There are a lot of restaurants and cafe’s in Sorrento, we tried out Le Grazie which was pretty good, it’s down one of the side streets and you can dine outside. For cafe’s we didn’t find a stand out cafe but there are many to choose from and all seemed reasonably priced. If you find yourself down at the marina, Port of Sorrento, there is a great place for gelato – a snack bar attached to Caffetteria Ruccio.
Returning to Naples
It’s from the Port of Sorrento where you can catch the ferry back to Naples which runs regularly throughout the day, book it in advance. The booking website is easy to use and we had no problems booking our tickets using our phone and showing the confirmation to the crew at the dock, most people had printed tickets but it isn’t required. The journey is comfortable and pretty quick – 35 to 45 minutes depending on the ferry.
If you don’t want to take the ferry back to Naples you have alternatives, the train being one of the main options. There is a direct train from Sorrento to Naples, it is on the Circumvesuviana line which also connects both cities with Pompeii and Herculaneum. From Sorrento back to Naples by train expect the journey to take around an hour and 20 minutes. It is cheaper than the ferry but also more crowded and does take longer.